A good wool sweater — especially a vintage one — can last a century. But wool fibres are covered in microscopic scales that lock together under heat, agitation and alkaline detergent. That locking is felting: the process that turns your size L into a size doll. Almost all wool damage comes from three avoidable mistakes. Here's the routine we recommend for every knit we sell.
Wash rarely, air often
Wool is naturally antibacterial and odour-resistant. Nine times out of ten, hanging the sweater outside overnight (or in a steamy bathroom) refreshes it completely. Wash only when it's genuinely soiled — for most people that's once or twice a season.
The safe wash routine
- Check the label — but treat even "machine washable" vintage wool gently.
- Use cool water (30°C max) and a wool-specific detergent with a neutral pH. Never regular laundry detergent, never fabric softener, never bleach.
- Soak, don't scrub. Submerge, press gently, let it soak 10–15 minutes. Agitation is what felts wool.
- Rinse cool with the same press-and-release motion until the water runs clear.
- Squeeze, never wring. Press water out with your hands, then roll the sweater in a dry towel and press again.
- Dry flat on a towel, reshaped to size, away from radiators and sun. Never hang a wet sweater — the weight stretches it.
Storage: the moth war
Clothes moths eat keratin — wool is their favourite food. Protect your knits by washing or airing them before storage (moths target food and sweat stains), then folding (never hanging wool) in a breathable cotton bag or drawer with cedar blocks. Vacuum-seal bags work for seasonal storage if the sweater is completely clean and fully dry.
Fixing small problems
- Pills: remove with a fabric comb or sweater stone; don't pull them by hand.
- Small holes: a knitter can reweave or darn them invisibly — worth it for a quality piece.
- Slightly shrunk: sometimes reversible: soak in cool water with hair conditioner for 20 minutes, press out, and gently stretch back to size while flat-drying. Works for minor felting only.
Care for them well and vintage knits reward you for decades. Browse the pieces worth caring for in our Knitwear & Sweaters collection — and if you're choosing your first one, start with our vintage knitwear buying guide.